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Welcome to our Question & Answer Bulletin Board -- a bulletin board for collectors and anyone else to post questions about railroadiana and related history. Please note that we do not deal with contemporary railroading. This board is moderated (all volunteer) but is not staffed by "experts". Rather it relies on everyone to share what they know. Any question or reply about railroadiana is welcome except the following:

  • No questions about what something is worth -- see About Values. Also, no questions or replies selling or looking for items, parts or services. This includes offers. We've been advised that questions about current internet auctions may pose a liability issue, so we have to be careful here also. Finally we reserve the right to remove responses that are discourteous or inappropriate.

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Latest 50 Questions:

 Q3537 D&RG RR Globe  I have found a 5 3/8 clear globe marked at the top M E G Co. 2, and cast in to a square panel is D&RGW RR. On the back is etched in all caps safety first. I’ve seen plenty of lanterns marked for D&RG RR but the DRGW seems to be a little harder to find.. Any idea what type or brand of lantern frame the RR was using when this type of globe was in use?  Posted Friday, November 2, 2018 by Rob   Post a Reply  Email a reply

 Q3536 German Lantern Globe Use?  I have a question regarding a German Globe that I purchased. Would you be able to help me identify if this was possibly used on the railway in Germany? The globe has the mark of Albert Riegermann who is more known for his burners/dead flame lamps. This particular globe is for a Hot Blast Lantern. It has the red lens and then 3 other large bulbous areas of blown glass around the globe. This is very old, maybe from the early 1900’s. The lantern it is sitting in is NOT the correct lantern for this globe. I appreciate any thoughts you might have. Kind regards,   [Click on image for larger version.] Posted Thursday, November 1, 2018 by ML   Post a Reply  Email a reply

 Q3535 Casey Lanterns  I've been studying the Keystone Lantern, and their Keystone Casey lanterns. Barrett's book mentions that they made RR lanterns for 50 different railroads, however I seem to only see PRR and B&O. Any readers out there have other RRs buying the Casey's?? Thanks.  Posted Saturday, October 27, 2018 by Jeff   Post a Reply  Email a reply

A. Hi - I had two very nice Minneapolis & St. Louis Railroad Keystone Casey lanterns, but I sold them last year.  Posted Saturday, October 27, 2018 by JEM

A. On this very web site you can peruse a list of railroads that used Keystone Casey lanterns. See Link 1. "Following are known railroads that used marked "Casey" railroad lanterns manufactured by the Keystone Lantern Company. Our thanks to everyone who has sent in new markings! Please see copyright information and other comments in the footnotes." Link 1  Posted Saturday, October 27, 2018 by JEM

 Q3534 Dressel Short Lantern Date?  I think I have one of the Dressel 'Heavy Duty' short lanterns. Noticed that your description seemed rather certain that it would have a patent number on the bottom of 2157081. Mine says 'PATAPLDFOR'. Does anyone know the manufacturing date of this lantern?  Posted Wednesday, October 24, 2018 by Charles   Post a Reply  Email a reply

A. Nice find !! The patent number you mention dates from the mid-1930s. Actually Google searches now work pretty well - go to the google search field and type in US Patent 123456 (or whatever the number is) and hopefully results will be easy. So you know your lantern has to have been made AFTER this date. How long this model was made, may be stated in one of the lantern collector guides such as Barrett's Encyclopedia. Hopefully another poster will add some more specific information.  Link 1  Posted Thursday, October 25, 2018 by JMS

A. OK I did some further digging. If the PATAPLDFOR applies to the number 2157081, the patent website says (if I am reading correctly) that US2157081A was granted on 1939-05-02. It typically takes a long time (years?) from when a patent is applied for and is granted. So this would seem like your lantern was made before the "Granted" date. NOW, did Dressel change its dies upon the patent being granted?  Posted Thursday, October 25, 2018 by JMS

A. Another thing I should have done - on the Link I provided, it says HAND LANTERN Filed March 24, 1936 2 Sheets-Sheetl INVENTOR 3 M Wa/ ATTORNEY y 1939- A. MENNA 2,157,081 meaning the patent was filed in 1936. Interestingly, this patent apparently was not for a brand new type of lantern, it was for a new design that would make improvements on an existing one: "This invention relates to improvements in hand lanterns and the like. More particularly the invention relates to globe holders of the type adapted to engage the upper end of the globe of the lantern to hold the globe in position. " So it looks like you may be able to date your lantern between 1936 and 1939, at least that is the simple conclusion.  Posted Thursday, October 25, 2018 by JMS

A. I am getting confused here. Charles says his lantern DOES NOT have patent number 2157081. It is only other people who have brought that number into the discussion. Folks I know who retired from the US Patent Office assure me that Patent Numbers exist ONLY AFTER the patent is gtanted. There is a Patent Application (or 'Applied For') number, but the application number and the final patent number are NOT the same, and the 'applied for' number might never be stamped into hardware. Most lantern manufacturers had all kinds of patent doings going on all the time to try to gain an advantage against very tough competition. So the term 'PatApldFor' on this lantern could refer to any of many patents Dressel was pursuing when it was made, and may have no relation at all to the 215 number mentioned. And since patent protection is normally good for only 17 years, the lack of the number on a lantern employing the patented improvement may mean it was made AFTER the patent expired, not before.  Posted Thursday, October 25, 2018 by RJMc

A. My apologies, RJMc, I re-read Charles' question and indeed misinterpreted it. I just did a search and didn't understand that it appears he may be referring to earlier questions (Q1797, Q980 and maybe others). You are absolutely correct about the 'Applied For' numbering being different than the numbers that are finally granted. I did look up 2157081, and the link I found does give the history including the application date, but isn't clear about the applied for number. Indeed, as you point out, probably more often than not some of the patent information/numbers stamped on lanterns and other relics may refer to a part or piece, not the entire relic. However, Link 1 shows the number 2157081 apparently does apply to an entire lantern. So the question becomes WHICH final patent number the PATAPLDFOR on Charles' lantern applies to - and here is where I erroneously surmised -- it COULD be 2157081, which should date the lantern before the date the patent was granted, BUT as you correctly point out, PATAPLDFOR could refer to some other piece or part for which a patent had been applied (such as a burner or fount or frame design, etc.) and THAT part was awaiting a final granted number. You're absolutely correct about the process involved, thank you for clearing up my less than adequate comments.  Posted Saturday, October 27, 2018 by JMS

 Q3533 PRR Adlake Kero Info?  I recently picked a vintage PRR marked lantern which I cannot positively identify. It is marked as follows: Dome: PRR (within keystone logo); Globe: 'C' with nx letters inside and PRR etched to glass; Burner: Dressel Arlington NJ; Bottom: Adlake-Kero 444 U.S.A. 1415633, 1415634, 1415635, 1660194 CANADA 1921 - 1923 Pats Pending. I believe it may be rare, but it seems to have variations of the models identified in your site. Any assistance in positively identifying it would be greatly appreciated.   [Click on image for larger version.] Posted Wednesday, October 24, 2018 by JC   Post a Reply  Email a reply

A. Other responses? I don't think this is a terribly scarce lantern. PRR/keystone is Pennsylvania Railroad. I dont have a picture of the bottom but I would guess 444 is the date code, made during the fourth quarter of 1944. The Cnx is the maker mark, for Corning Glass.  Posted Wednesday, October 24, 2018 by JMS

A. Here is a link to some PRR Kero lanterns that have sold recently on eBay.  Link 1  Posted Wednesday, October 24, 2018 by JMS

 Q3532 Lantern Info Needed  I found this old lantern in my parents' basement while going through the estate. I can’t find any indication of a maker or RR but I also can’t figure out how to open it to see if that might be on the inside somewhere. I tried pressing the obvious clip to open the lid but that did not work so maybe it is just rusted or welded shut... Anyway, I'm wondering if you have any idea who may have made it and the approximate age? In my searches, I have not yet seen a bell bottom lantern with a cage like this. At least, I think this may be a bell bottom style. Correct me if I am wrong. Thanks for any input you may have and be willing to share!   [Click on image for larger version.] Posted Tuesday, October 23, 2018 by JD   Post a Reply  Email a reply

A. If the clip that releases the bell bottom is brass try cleaning it, you may find manufacturer name or patent date. Depressing thumb latch should enable you to swing the top open. Doubt you will find any information inside other than a name on brass wick holder burner. Posted Wednesday, October 24, 2018 by DC

A. Hello JD,I believe that this is a very early Adams and Westlake model lantern and many of these had their name and patent data on the very bottom center of the bellbottom.Take a look and gently clean this center area and my guess is that you will find your answer.There is always the possibility that the bell bottom assembly was switched from another mfr's lantern and this may not hold true in your case.Good luck.DJB Posted Wednesday, October 24, 2018 by DJB

A. Thanks so much for the info! After some cleaning and looking at the bottom center under a magnifying light we were able to make out the Adams and Westlake. The dates are very hard to read but there appear to be a few. I think the most recent may be something like August 25 or 26,1876? The one before that was 1873 I believe. JD Posted Wednesday, October 24, 2018 by JD

A.  All US patents are issued on Tuesdays. August 25,1876 was a Friday, the 26th was a Saturday so a patent search on for those dates may not yield anything. Also I checked the Lantern Patent listing in "The Illustrated Encyclopedia Of Railroad Lighting,Volume One-The Railroad Lantern" and it does not show any lantern patents issued in 1876 and that seems odd.  Posted Thursday, October 25, 2018 by KM

A. Thanks KM I emailed another post with a photo of the bottom this morning in hopes that more info could be gleaned from that. Not sure when that will be posted but maybe today. Now I am wondering if it could be 1873 or 1875. The previous date is very clear. May 20, 73 JD Posted Thursday, October 25, 2018 by JD

A. Wondering if anyone can help me nail down or make an educated guess on the final Patent Date and also the other wording THE ADAMS AND WESTLAKE (LANTERN?) and also opposite that looks to me like UNDER ….. NING? or WING? PAT? The last date I can read clearly is May 20, 73. The one below center looks like it might be Aug 28, 73 or 75? Any other input after viewing the bottom would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!  Link 1  Posted Thursday, October 25, 2018 by JD

A.  Try US Patent 139030 granted to Thomas Smith of Cleveland on 5/20/1873. The drawing in the patent shows bail ears which are formed from the vertical guards. It looks like your lantern may have those. Try #142134 granted to William Westlake on 8/26/1873 for an adjustable globe holder.  Posted Thursday, October 25, 2018 by KM

A. See Q1966 in the Archives. That lantern has the adjustable globe holder that I mentioned above. Does your lantern have that pin arrangement in the top that allows globes of different heights to be used? Posted Thursday, October 25, 2018 by KM

A. by the way 5/20/1873 and 8/26/1873 are both Tuesdays. Totally off topic. Also on 5/20/1873 Levi Strauss and Jacob Davis were granted patent number 134121 for an improvement in men's pants that soon was known as blue jeans.  Posted Thursday, October 25, 2018 by KM

A. Thanks KM Yes it has the bail ears formed from the vertical guards. But no, it does not have the adjustable globe holder feature - which is too bad. So does that mean the top is not original to this lantern? Or could there be another explanation? I finally figured out the other wording - UNDER FOLLOWING PAT (duh) - or maybe there is more after PAT? Interesting about Levi Strauss. JD  Posted Friday, October 26, 2018 by JD

A.  The adjustable globe holder may have been an option which was not installed on every lantern and maybe they did not remove the patent information from the bottom. Or it is the wrong patent, but there is too much circumstantial evidence to reach that conclusion. Check out that 1907 Adlake catalogue that is available elsewhere on this site and see if the globe holder is still available as an option. I don't think that someone changed the top. That said keep in mind that larger railroads did have lantern repair shops that did maintenance like that. Posted Friday, October 26, 2018 by KM

A. Thanks KM Really appreciate all the info. FYI Did not see a mention of the adjustable globe holder in the 1907 catalog. Posted Friday, October 26, 2018 by JD

 Q3531 Adlake & Kero #300 burner problem  I just got this lantern last week, and I cannot get the burner to securely twist into the fount. I have thought several times that I did it correctly until I insert it into the lantern - when I turn the knob to adjust the wick the burner pops out. The slightest touch loosens it. I am afraid to light it for fear of setting the lamp oil in the pot on fire and not knowing how to put it out! The cotton is still in the oil pot, by the way, if that makes any difference. Getting a new wick wouldn't hurt, but the current wick turns up and down freely so I don't think that's a factor. I see the two small openings in the oil pot, and the indentations on the burner, but do not know exactly how they are supposed to line up. Or is it possible that the oil pot opening is slightly bent or warped? What's the 'trick' to getting this on correctly! [Follow-up]: I took the cotton out of the oil pot and found an O-ring with two knob like protrusions loose in there. So that solves the original mystery why I couldn't get the burner secure. The next question is can I somehow get that back in place, or so I simply need to find another #300 oil pot?  Posted Saturday, October 20, 2018 by JW   Post a Reply  Email a reply

A. I've never seen an O ring used to secure a burner to a any fount. I think someone had the same problem you have an jerry rigged an O ring in there so the burner would fit. Garden hose washers have protrusions on them. Wonder if someone used a cut down one and left 2 protrusions on it. I'd go to that well known auction site and just buy a new fount. Posted Sunday, October 21, 2018 by LC

A. Some burners were threaded into the fount with (in railroad terms) a very fine thread. For these it was definitely necessary not to 'twist' the burner in, but to start it carefully and screw it in involving at least several turns of thread engagement. Other lantern models (including some Adlakes) had a definite 'twist-lock' arrangement which they called 'bayonet catch' --see Link 1 to the archives here on the Q&A site -- which only required maybe 90 degrees of twist to seat securely, more or less like a cork. Without a pic, and without detailed checking of part no's. etc, it sounds to me that either you have a threaded=style fount on which the threads are worn out, or you have the wrong burner for that fount and somebody 'cobbled it together' as described above.  Link 1  Posted Sunday, October 21, 2018 by RJMc

A. I think the guys have ID'd your problem. The threads likely are stripped - manhandled by a previous owner, so they are useless and no way to repair. These burners/founts are fairly easy to come by - watch eBay - if you want to use this lantern you really should spring for a correct one that will be safe to use. Good luck !  Posted Sunday, October 21, 2018 by JMS

A. Thanks for the replies. Clearly there are no threads on either the oil pot or burner, and both are labeled #300. I am looking for a replacements, but would like to restore the original if possible. I think LC was right. Since the part is inside and I cannot get it out - I wonder if any type of glue would be safe to use. Guess nobody so far knows how it was manufactured, perhaps welded - but that is no longer an option. I have been trying to post pictures. I'll try again.  Posted Monday, October 22, 2018 by JW

A. JW, We don't allow posting images directly for security reasons and also because each image may have to be resized due to disk storage constraints. Send an image(s) directly to this email address [Email a Question link]. Please indicate the question number. Posted Monday, October 22, 2018 by web editor

A. Here are some photos. Link 1  Posted Monday, October 22, 2018 by JW

A. On digging out a couple of Adlake 300's I think I now understand your problem. The only thing that originally holds the 'bayonet catch' burner into the fount is two TRULY minuscule tabs that seem to have been made as part of the original stamping of the top plate of the fount; they protrude into the ID of the burner-mount hole (pic to follow later.) Those tabs are thinner and narrower than typical paper clip wire (!!!). Those two tabs engage 'L-shaped' slots in the burner base. Once those two tabs wear away, or corrode away, there is nothing holding the burner onto the fount, which I think is your situation. In fact, the fit of the original arrangement is not particularly tight and probably leaked some kerosene into the globe. Neither of the 300's I looked at have gaskets. I suspect somebody added the garden hose washer to yours to try to get a better seal when the tabs were still there; the upward stress caused by compressing the additional thickness of the gasket probably wore away or broke off your tabs. As to fixing the original, you could fabricate a flat ring, with tabs, and solder it on top of the existing top plate (after completely clearing the can of cotton and kerosene, if any). If you won't be using the lantern much, that new flat ring could be of flat copper or brass, or even a modified steel washer. Acquirng a replacement fount -- after checking to make sure its tabs are there and in good shape -- would be a much quicker solution and let you continue to use the existing burner, unless the 'L' slots in it are worn out in some way.  Posted Tuesday, October 23, 2018 by RJMc

A. Here's a photo to illustrate the response above. Link 1  Posted Wednesday, October 24, 2018 by RJMc

A. What looks like a yellow horizontal smudge on the burner base in the pic, above the locking tab is the bottom of the groove the tab is supposed to engage to twist-lock the burner onto the fount.  Posted Wednesday, October 24, 2018 by RJMc

 Q3530 Light ID?  Can anyone identify this light and its purpose? It was donated to our RR museum with no information about it. The dimensions are about 7 inches diameter by about 3 inches depth. I am unable to view the back.   [Click on image for larger version.] Posted Thursday, October 11, 2018 by Steve   Post a Reply  Email a reply

A. There are several good possibilities to consider. (1) A marker light from a caboose. See Link 1, note the two lights atop the cupola of an SP caboose. The red paint causes me to think of this. (2) The 'Emergency' flasher from a diesel locomotive. See Link 2; note the light centered between the '410' numberboards. (My apologies about the condition of the loco in the pic....but the light shows up clearly in this one!) (3) Some grade crossing warnings (wig wags, for example) may have had lights like this. (4) School busses also have warning lights similar to this.  Link 1  Link 2  Posted Friday, October 12, 2018 by RJMc

A. See Link 1 for a good pic of a wig-wag crossing signal; even with red paint around the light! And, is it a strobe light, or an incandescent bulb? The strobe would be a strong indicator for the locomotive application.  Link 1  Posted Friday, October 12, 2018 by RJMc

A.  Take the light apart and photograph the bulb, the socket and also see if the voltage or bulb number is marked on the base of the bulb. That information is frequently a good clue about the usage of lights like these. A school bus or fire truck probably used a 12 volt bulb. Grade crossing flashers and locomotives would be different.  Posted Friday, October 12, 2018 by KM

 Q3529 Handlan Lamp Info?  I am interested in finding out the history of the lamp pictured here from your site. I have one just like it and I think it is quite rare. It is from the S.P.L.A.& S.L.R.R. I have done a lot of searching, but have found nothing else. I am wondering if anyone can tell me more about it? I am not looking to sell as this item has been in the family for many years.   [Click on image for larger version.] Posted Tuesday, October 9, 2018 by Don A   Post a Reply  Email a reply

A. That seems to be a somewhat updated version of the Prahm switch lantern. My 1900 MM Buck catalog shows an almost identical lantern on page 407. Handlan Buck followed MM Buck and early HB lanterns were essentially MM Buck models with updated maker lettering for the new company name. Those early HB lanterns were heavy and well constructed. Posted Tuesday, October 9, 2018 by BobF

A. See our page from the 1900 Buck catalog showing a Prahm lamp. Link 1  Posted Thursday, October 11, 2018 by Web Editor

 Q3528 Lamp Date?  I need to know the date of this lamp. It's made in England, but I can't find sentinal brand any where. Can you help me with it? Thanks in advance.   [Click on image for larger version.] Posted Sunday, October 7, 2018 by ER   Post a Reply  Email a reply

A.  I am not familiar with the Sentinal brand, but that lantern looks just like a Powerlight lantern that was made by Delta in Marion,Ind. Check the Flashlight Museum website for more information. It is not a railroad lantern, the delta lanterns were sold by neighborhood hardware store in the 50's,60, and maybe as late as the 1970's.  Posted Monday, October 8, 2018 by KM

A. Thankyou Posted Wednesday, October 10, 2018 by Er

 Q3527 Plate IDs?  I wonder if your or someone can help with these 3 plates. I can’t find any reference to which locomotives they are off. (1) Montreal Loco 58333 1918 (Worksplate MONTREAL LOCOMOTIVE WORKS LIMITED 58333 JANY 1918. Rectangular cast brass), (2) Lima USA 1427 1914 (Worksplate LIMA LOCOMOTIVE CORPORATION LIMA OHIO U.S.A No1427 1914. Rectangular cast brass), and (3) Canadian Locomotive 1880 1930 (Worksplate CANADIAN LOCOMOTIVE CO LTD KINGSTON, ONT No1880 1930. Diamond shaped cast brass). Thanks.  Posted Saturday, September 29, 2018 by Simon T.   Post a Reply  Email a reply

A. My Lima records indicate that 1427 was built for the UP as a 4-6-2 road # 184 Posted Saturday, September 29, 2018 by COD

 Q3526 Lantern Manufacturer?  Can anyone ID the manufacturer of this lantern? This is one of the first styles to stump me. It reads Erie / Railroad No. 39. Also wondering approximate date, globe is embossed E.R.R. definitely one of the older ones. Thanks for any information.   [Click on image for larger version.] Posted Thursday, September 27, 2018 by AW   Post a Reply  Email a reply

A. CT Ham Mfg Co. There should also be either a patent date of Dec 29 1893 or CT Ham Mfg Co stamped with the same date on the opposite side of the outer font enclosure from where the "snap" to hold the font assembly to the rest of the lantern is. Posted Friday, September 28, 2018 by BobF

A. The double vertical globe guard wires are characteristic of C.T. Ham lanterns. As far as I know, no other lantern manufacturer used double wires like this. Ham was in business by 1886, and in 1915 the business was sold to Dietz Lantern Company.  Posted Tuesday, October 2, 2018 by JEM

 Q3525 Lock Info?  I have a brass switch lock I'm trying to identify. It was inherited from my grandfather. He was not a railroader himself, but commuted for many years from McKeesport, PA to Pittsburgh on the B&O 'Doodlebug' commuter local. He had several pieces of B&O and P&LE railroadania that he had obtained over the questions asked. One of these is a brass switch lock with no identification except for a small '10' stamped on the top of the hasp. There are no manufacturer's or railroad identification anywhere. I have no key, but a P&LE key does not work; the key barrel outside diameter is greater than that for the mystery lock. My grandfather did not have contacts with any other railroads where he could acquire such equipment.   [Click on image for larger version.] Posted Tuesday, September 25, 2018 by RW   Post a Reply  Email a reply

A. As a rule, padlocks that were used by the railroad are marked with their initials. While these locks look like RR locks, they could been used for many purposes, including industry, or just by an individual who wanted a heavy padlock for his barn.  Posted Tuesday, September 25, 2018 by DA

A. A picture of the keyway shape would help, along with some size reference. Although it might not allow us to be certain, it could eliminate many possibilities. And in come cases, for less common applications (examples: toolhouse locks, signal box locks, interlocking equipment locks, and much earlier, car locks) RR's also used unmarked locks like this and often they were smaller than switch locks and had more complicated key patterns. And PRR was a major force in the Pittsburgh area as well as B&O and P&LE, not to mention the streetcar and interurban lines.  Posted Wednesday, September 26, 2018 by RJMc

A. Here's a photo of the keyway. Link 1  Posted Wednesday, September 26, 2018 by RW

A. This is a very common keyway. Good news: it will be easy to get a key to make the lock work; less-good-news; the keyway is so common it will likely not be possible to tie it to any user. These were even sold to the public by locksmiths, in hardware stores and even by mail order companies like Sears and Montgomery Ward. What size is the lock? These were made in sizes ranging from very small, less than 1" tall (!!) to very large, maybe 4 or 5" tall, and they all look virtually identical. It is very hard to tell from pictures which size the lock (and the keys) might be.I have been fooled by this and have purchased some on the Web that turned out to be the miniature size.  Posted Thursday, September 27, 2018 by RJMc

 Q3524 Lamp Use?  Can you tell me what this lamp was used for? Thank you.   [Click on image for larger version.] Posted Tuesday, September 25, 2018 by Scott S.   Post a Reply  Email a reply

A. Scott; What you have is an Order Board Lamp from the Santa Fe (AT&SF). The Santa Fe used this lamp body style for everything; Switch Lamps, Marker Lamps and Order Board Lamps. (apparently everything except locomotive class lamps) The lamps the Santa Fe used are variation of the Adlake number 63 Switch Lamp (Link 1), with a few general modifications across all the Santa Fe lamps and additional specific modifications for the particular use they were put to. (see; far below for details) The long vertical box shown in the third photo is open on the bottom and fits over a vertical blade on the frame of the order board; this holds the lamp firmly in place in the order board. Many order board lamps from other manufacturers mount in the same fashion; though the application on the Santa Fe lamps are unique for the No. 63 style lamps. – The two clear lenses illuminate the colors in the semaphore arms of the order board signal; one lens facing each direction up and down the track. – – Your lamp has been fitted with a 4.5 inch yellow lens, which was done after it left the railroad. That lens opening would have originally been blanked out with a metal disk, as only the two clear lenses (called “white” on the railroad) were used in order board lamps. – – There has been some discussion on here that the Santa Fe may have in fact acquired the forming dies for these lamps from Adlake and then made the lamps themselves in one or more Santa Fe shops, as they lack the Adlake marked cap and patent date badge, and apparently, no other style or brand of lamps were used on the Santa Fe. (again, other than class lamps) Note: some few Santa Fe lamps do show up with a marked Adlake cap, most though do not. – – A few more notes; many of these order board style lamps that turn up are painted silver. As Santa Fe order board masts were silver, when the mast got a fresh coat of silver paint, sometimes so did the lamp. I mentioned that these lamps are a variation of the Adlake Number 63 lamp (Link 1). The skirt around the bottom of the lamp, which says “Santa Fe” on it, is cast brass and riveted to the body. (some may be cast aluminum also) The skirt has eight evenly spaced indexing holes in it. A cast iron ring was fastened over the skirt, and pins in the iron ring fit into one or more of the indexing holes to keep the ring from moving, or rather, kept the lamp from rotating in the ring . The AT&SF used that same lamp body in at least three different applications; As a switch lamp, the iron ring held two vertical tubes to the lamp so that it could be mounted to a fork on top of the switch stand; as did the number 63 Adlake lamp. – As a marker lamp, the ring has two horizontal arms on it about 45º apart. One arm had the more modern mounting shoe on it for “modern” brackets found on the corners of cabooses, passenger cars and tenders. The other arm had an older shoe for older style brackets which consisted of a long narrow vertical slot in a metal plate which was again mounted on the corners of equipment. On the marker version, the ring also had a spring loaded knob that actuated the positioning pin in the ring, you would pull out the knob, turn the lamp in the ring to the correct display position and let go of the knob and its attached pin, which would fit into one of the indexing holes in the skirt and lock the lamp in place in that position. – As an order board lamp, the third style of ring was used as shown in the photo in this question. – This was an ingenious design; one basic lamp body serving three different functions, just by changing out that iron ring. – – Do be VERY careful of those clear lenses! They are 4&1/8th inch diameter, and clear ones are virtually impossible to find!! ---- …. Red Beard  Link 1  Posted Friday, September 28, 2018 by Red Beard the Railroad Raider

A. OH, also; Please don't repaint this fine lamp. It is in excellent original condition and should be preserved as is! (...with a tip of the hat to TE and LC) ---- .... Red Beard Posted Saturday, September 29, 2018 by Red Beard the Railroad Raider

A. Touche Red Beard :). Posted Saturday, September 29, 2018 by LC

A. OK.......I could tolerate leaving this one "as is." So see.....I'm not a total cad who's bent on refurbishing everything. Rest assured that half of my collection will be left alone as I have so many other things to take care of. TE  Posted Sunday, September 30, 2018 by TE

A. TE;, I hear that about having so much other stuff to take care of. -- I have over a dozen lamps I had sandblasted decades ago and never have gotten around to repainting (talk about an extreme way to "clean" up a lamp!)I soooo wish I'd never done that! They'd look much better today if I'd just left them in that 'fresh off the tracks' grime LOL ---- .... Red Beard  Posted Sunday, September 30, 2018 by Red Beard the Railroad Raider

 Q3523 Lantern ID Needed  Can anyone ID this lantern for me: Bell Bottom, Tin Top, Sangster-type Pinch Pot, Extended Base #39 Size Globe, Odd unmarked Round-Wick Burner (similar to a Union Ratchet Burner which appears to have been with the lantern a long time. A few makers used those little side loops for attaching the Bail. Lantern has no markings visible anywhere. Have not seen another like it, nor similar photo in a book. Any ideas? Thanks.   [Click on image for larger version.] Posted Tuesday, September 25, 2018 by GW   Post a Reply  Email a reply

 Q3522 Teapot Finial  I found a Lenox teapot with silver-soldered lid marked with initials for the CMStP&P Railroad. Lid has an interesting finial, and I cannot figure out what it means. Is it a Railroad Logo, or something else entirely?? Thank you!!   [Click on image for larger version.] Posted Sunday, September 23, 2018 by John   Post a Reply  Email a reply

A. Hello John,This finial is basically a stylized version of an Indian headdress representing the native American "Hiawatha"after whom the Milwaukee Road trains were named.There may be another explanation but that's the one I have heard over the years. DJB Posted Monday, September 24, 2018 by DJB

 Q3521 Adlake Gas Lamp   I have this lamp that looks like it is gas powered as opposed to kerosene. Does anyone have any info on this type of Adlake lamp?   [Click on image for larger version.] Posted Wednesday, September 19, 2018 by CL   Post a Reply  Email a reply

A. The lens to concentrate the light makes this look suspiciously like a gas-powered theater floodlight or footlight source, or projector source, with the white cylinder being a gas mantle, or possibly a limelight source.  Posted Thursday, September 20, 2018 by RJMc

A. I think RJMc is on to something. If you look closely at the Adlake cap and the rest of the lamp body, you will notice that the finish is completely different from one to the other; indicating that they do not belong together. Another clue would be the screws holding the cap onto the rest of the lamp. I have never seen an Adlake lamp where the cap was screwed on; always riveted. My guess is that lamp is not Adlake, but rather, a previous owner needed a cap and slapped the Adlake one onto this lamp as a convenient fix. ---- .... Red Beard Posted Thursday, September 20, 2018 by Red Beard the Railroad Raider

A. Right...this is a 'mix and match' situation. The cap refers to the Adlake 'Non Sweating Lamp' which (as discussed at some length at several places around the website here)is a very specific group of patented design features for kerosene-burning lamps. None of those features are present in this lamp, and don't look like they ever were present. Gas mantle lamps, compared with kerosene lamps, burn extremely cleanly and so didn't need 'non-sweating'; plus the body of this lamp looks like it was for an indoor application.  Posted Thursday, September 20, 2018 by RJMc

A. To add a nail to the coffin - The picture shows the Non-Sweating top screwed down with actual hardware screws to the frame underneath. These were never fastened to railroad lamp frames in this manner. Indeed, it's attached to an unrelated frame!  Posted Thursday, September 20, 2018 by JMS

A. This is a typical Adlake lamp case as used on signals over here in the UK , the body top and screws holding the top on are 100% right. The ones over here were always oil lamp with a separate interior. Rgds Simon GW Railwayana Auctions Posted Sunday, September 30, 2018 by ST

 Q3520 Bell Info?  I recently acquired a 14 inch bell that I believe should be stationary. Is there an adjustment I can make to straighten the yoke in the cradle? I would like to align this if possible. I was told that it was straight up and down but a trip on its side for delivery caused it to stick. I have tried a few things but am unable to straighten it and I don’t want to damage it. Any thoughts on this? adjustments? Thank you for your time.   [Click on image for larger version.] Posted Thursday, September 13, 2018 by Toby   Post a Reply  Email a reply

A. Nice bell but it's not stationary. The fact it moved in its cradle during shipment proves this. Assuming you already tried WD40, liquid wrench etc., have you tried heating the yoke/cradle areas with a torch? Auto mechanics do it to loosen parts (called a "smoke wrench" in the trade). I don't think muscling it back would damage it either as it looks well built. Posted Friday, September 14, 2018 by LC

A. THe bell was definitely not designed to be stationary, but in later years many were, using one or another kind of air-operated clapper instead of swinging the bell. Before any thought of a torch, I would take a medium-size bar and slip it between the hanger and the top of the bell (maybe with some padding) and apply leverage, gentle at first and then stronger as needed, to get the bell to move upright. It looks to me that some of the new paint on the hanger may have gotten into the bearings and jammed them, probably only a little. Some WD-40, PB Blaster, or even paint remover around those bearings might help to free them up, if the lever discussed above doesn't do the trick. When the bell was in daily use by swinging, those bearings would have had 'zirc' grease fittings (similar to used on a lot of automobile fittings), and applying grease would be another way to help free it up. I can't quite tell if the pins sticking out of the hinge area may be those fittings.  Posted Friday, September 14, 2018 by RJMc

A. My guess is rust is the real culprit. I’d go with the WD-40 or 3 in 1 oil before I'd try the torch. Another better lubricant is Militec available at your local gun shop. The bad news is that it is about twice the price of WD-40 but it works like a top. Posted Sunday, September 16, 2018 by Ex Sou Ry

A. Thank you for your ideas. Ok, so I have used wd40, blaster and a silicon lube with no luck. It still will not budge. I have bolted the base to a 2x8 and tried putting a strap around the bell to winch it. No luck. I placed the bell on its side and tried to move the base. So far nothing has worked to straighten or get it to move at all. I am thinking about putting a 90 degree galvanized pipe elbow over the nuts on top with a long pipe in the elbow for leverage.  Posted Monday, September 24, 2018 by Toby

 Q3519 Lamp ID Info Needed  Ever since I inherited these two lamps from a family member I have tried to figure out some information on them, to no avail. I cannot find one on Google or Ebay just like it at all. I know they are Adlake since it says so on the top. There are no other markings. It has two glass lens, one clear and the other red. It has no handle and any indication that it ever had one. There is a 'door' that opens by lifting up for changing the lens, I assume and filling the oil can or replacing the wick. Could you help me the identification of my lamp? Thank you for anything you can help me on.   [Click on image for larger version.] Posted Thursday, September 13, 2018 by Rick F   Post a Reply  Email a reply

A. Adlake used the same basic designs to make lamps similar to this for all kinds of purposes before all kinds of vehiceles got all-electric lamps. Possibilities include early automobiles, buses, delivery or farm trucks, and some railroad maintenance 'speeders' or motor cars used lamps similar to this.  Posted Friday, September 14, 2018 by RJMc

 Q3518 RR Item ID?  Can you identify this extremely heavy item( steel or iron,)? I would like to know if it's railroad related? If so might it be a collectible? thanks very much!!   [Click on image for larger version.] Posted Wednesday, September 12, 2018 by Gloria P   Post a Reply  Email a reply

A. This is one end of a railroad rail, where it was joined to an adjacent rail in the track. This piece would have been sawed off from a rail which begain as 39 feet long. The larger hole in the middle (web) of the rail is where one of the bolts passed thru to hold the plates which join two rails together in the track. Each rail end at such joint has a minimum of 2, and usually 3 such holes and bolts to secure the joint. The smaller holes at what is the top of the rail ('the head') were to make electrical jumper connections between the two rails, usually to carry signalling currents which do things like make sure the grade crossing signals, and traffic control block signals, work correctly. Various people saw off and use these chunks of rail for many purposes: book ends, blacksmithing anvils, paperweights come to mind. They are not uncommon. Unless someone has particular knowledge and sentiment about where a particular piece came from, they have little special value.  Posted Wednesday, September 12, 2018 by RJMc

A. It is a piece of rail. It has zero collectable value ($) but will make a nice small anvil for your shop. Posted Sunday, September 16, 2018 by Ex Sou Ry

 Q3517 Assistance with Lamp  I'd love your assistance please. I purchased this beauty for my train loving son (who continues to say he plans to be a train signalman when he's older) at a yard sale and would like to restore it a bit. First, does anyone know what it is or about the age of it? It looks like it was built for an open flame to be inside. My thought is to use rust remover and possibly repaint it to its original color that looks to be red. Rust has taken its toll on the clips holding in the glass. Any thoughts or ideas on holding the glass pieces in after rust removal? Lastly, any ideas for a battery powered light to place in there that would be bright enough to shine through? Thank you!   [Click on image for larger version.] Posted Sunday, September 9, 2018 by Keith D.   Post a Reply  Email a reply

A. My thought is this lamp looks British or European. There would have been a rain cap on the top to allow venting and keep rainwater out. Most likely this had a kerosene tank and burner at one time. To preserve this somewhat I would mechanically remove excess scaly rust and then use a rust converter product on those rusty areas. The rust converter hardens the remaining rust and stops further rusting. I would not try to remove the lenses as those lens clips look really fragile. Once the rust converter is dry, mask off the lenses and spray paint it. You should be able to find a battery operated LED light that would fit inside. Walmart and many other retailers sell battery powered LED votive lights and candles. This looks perfect for a train loving boy's bedroom.  Posted Monday, September 10, 2018 by JEM

A. I agree with JEM, it has the look of a European style lantern or maybe even from India etc. Frankly it not a must have for an American RR collector. So if your son isn't going to carry it around, I'd drill a small hole in the bottom and install a treaded lamp rod with a chandelier base socket. Then a 4 or 7 watt night light clear blub lined up with the center lens. Makes for a nice low light signal lamp in a room. All lamp parts are available at Lowes & Home Depot.  Posted Monday, September 10, 2018 by LC

A. Looks like a level crossing (grade crossing) lamp, in which case it should have 4 red lenses. Could be from any country that uses British operating systems, though I have seen many similar examples from Ireland. Posted Tuesday, September 11, 2018 by JAJ

A. I looked and found a bunch of them popping up on the internet folloiwng a Google search for "India railway lantern". It surely looks like NOT USA made... see Link 1 for the search results.  Link 1  Posted Sunday, September 16, 2018 by JS

A. Typical UK style gated crossing lamp 2 red and 2 clear. The top is right and not missing anything. Simon GW Railwayana Auctions Posted Sunday, September 30, 2018 by ST

 Q3516 Oil Can Info?  I recently found what I believe to be a railroad oil can in an antique store. On one side in large letters are the initials WFZ. On the other side is a LARGE six pointed star, which is a symbol used to identify Israel. Can anyone out there help me identify if and what railroad this would be from? Thanks in advance for any help you can give me.   [Click on image for larger version.] Posted Monday, September 3, 2018 by Joe R.   Post a Reply  Email a reply

A. I think you may find this is a torch - not an "oil can." It would have fuel in the body and a fat round wick down the "spout" which would be lit at the end. The 6-pointed star SEE LINK 1 is called the "Star of David" and in the 1800s became representative of the worldwide Zionist community, and later the broader Jewish community, after it was chosen as the central symbol on a flag at the First Zionist Congress in 1898. My suggestion is that your torch is not from a railroad, but from a Jewish organization whose initials were WFZ - I would bet that "Z" stands for Zion (or some form of that word)and I would further guess "F" is for Federation - "W" maybe for World? or the name of the city where the Federation was located? See LINK 2. This kind of torch is a "universal" type that has been made for all kinds of customers since colonial days.Railroads were one of many customers.  Link 1  Link 2  Posted Monday, September 3, 2018 by JMS

A. See prior Q No. 3487 about torches on RR's. The RR uses usually involved moving the torch around quite a bit, and the wick holder on yours is very large in diameter which might lead to liquid spilling. I would also check what type of oil residue is in your unit. The RR's used the most commonly available fuel for shop work, usually kerosene. If your unit was used in ceremonies, it probably has a more 'refined' fuel, maybe olive oil. But the fairly rough, unfinished surface causes me to doubt 'ceremonial' use, and the added tag to me is more likely to indicate a user's/owner's initials, rather than an organization.  Posted Monday, September 3, 2018 by RJMc

 Q3515 Milwaukee Road Jar  I came across this small glass Milwaukee Road jar in a box of my recently deceased Grandfather's items and can't find anything similar online to know what it is exactly. It has a screw top lid, with two holes drilled in it, and three different 'motivational' type quotes under the Milwaukee Road logos on three sides of the jar respectively. I would greatly appreciate any informatiat your conveniece of course, as I have no idea what it is or if it's authentic or just some type of reproduction. Thank you very much.   [Click on image for larger version.] Posted Monday, August 27, 2018 by Kirt   Post a Reply  Email a reply

A. Well, I would think the screw holes in the lid could be explained by someone (a shop worker) fastening the lid to the underside of a shelf. Then he could unscrew the jar with one hand, and it would make sure the jar was in immediate reach instead of being set aside or put where it didn't belong. My dad did this with some jars he had in which he stored screws. This certainly seems like it is authentic but I am no expert, only feeling that it is too complicated for fakers - who likely would have just slapped on a logo and not all THREE (no less) of the really neat "isms."  Posted Monday, August 27, 2018 by JMS

A. Hello JMS,This glass jar marked for the Milwaukee Road is absolutely legit and according to some of my fellow ex-Milw employees ( I transferred to the ex-Milw side from the Soo Lake States Division in 1987)these were given out in the early 80's as safety incentive gifts and we meant to be used to hold screws,bolts etc in their shops to lessen clutter on their work benches.The jar lids were nailed to an overhead surface above the work area and the jar screwed to the lid for easy access.One employee told me that they came in sets of 3 but I can't confirm that.I rescued a couple for myself from an old RR building that was being torn down and still use mine for this exact purpose. DJB Posted Tuesday, August 28, 2018 by DJB

A. Hello back, DJB - thanks for removing all doubt! This is great news. Guess my Dad who was in the sign business wasn't the only one using the bright idea of fastening jars underneath a surface. Clear containers are so much easier to use! I was 99.44% sure the jar shown was legit - but never seen nor heard of them until now ! And them being safety awards makes perfect sense, and explains professional enamel decoration. The only thing I might suggest is that Dad screwed his lids to the board above rather than nailing them, it's easier to control a screwdriver than a hammer upside down.  Posted Thursday, August 30, 2018 by JMS

A. Thanks to all the folks who have replied. I greatly appreciate the help! Posted Thursday, August 30, 2018 by Kirt

 Q3514 China Marking  Any help on this piece would be greatly apprecated - Thank You.   [Click on image for larger version.] Posted Monday, August 27, 2018 by Antiques and Collectibles   Post a Reply  Email a reply

A. I am willing to bet this may be from a steamship line. "Line" or "Lines" often appears on ship china. I looked through Barbara Conroy's book with no luck. You might try the RestaurantWare Collectors Network on their Facebook page and ask if anyone recognizes it - they have EXTENSIVE lists of patterns. The FB page address is at Link 1. Good luck !  Link 1  Posted Monday, August 27, 2018 by JMS

A. I am glad to see an ID has been made via the RWCN FB link - Larry Paul (author of Sparkling Crystal) belongs to this group and has verified that it is STEAMSHIP china.  Posted Thursday, August 30, 2018 by JMS

 Q3513 Adlake 1112 Restoration  I am restoring an adlake 1112 non sweating switch lamp and was wondering if some one had previously taken all the paint off and stripped it to bare metal. It has a PRR tag on it, and I would like to repaint it. Most of what I see are all black. Should I use a heat resistant paint on it or just paint it gloss black? Also the small flame observation hole at the top was soldered over with a tag saying PRR on it. Do you think that the railroad did this or someone else? Any info would be appreciated.   [Click on image for larger version.] Posted Monday, August 27, 2018 by SP   Post a Reply  Email a reply

A. Yes, somebody did a very good job of stripping the old paint; a pretty challenging task you don't have to worry about now. All of the Pennsylvania lamps I've seen have that same round Keystone tag soldered over the peep hole opening. I don't know if they came from Adlake like that or if the railroad did it. In the photos with your previous question (Q3491) it looks like there is a little residual rust on the lamp. Sand those areas with some coarse sand paper before you paint. I'd use plain Rustoleum gloss black. All lamps started out shiny, and none of the flat paints available capture the look of a weathered lamp. A lit lamp can get pretty warm, but not hot enough that you need a high heat paint; and, don't turn the flame up that far anyway. I've stopped using primer as well as I don't think it is needed. Also, when you chip the paint, the primer shows through (and I've eventually chipped many a repainted lamp) -- Please send in a photo of how you patched the bottom of the lamp. It's a nice piece and those PRR lamps don't show up that often. ---- .... Red Beard Posted Tuesday, August 28, 2018 by Red Beard the Railroad Raider

A. Red Beard, I see you have evolved. No rant about how history was destroyed when the original paint and rust was removed from the lamp :). Posted Tuesday, August 28, 2018 by LC

A. LC - Touché mon ami; LOL. No, I'm still the same ol' grouchy curmudgeon on the re-paint subject. This one though seems to have been acquired in its already paint-less condition. My rule of thumb is that if a lamp has +/- 80% of its original factory paint OR railroad re-paint, you should preserve it. -- Old weathered lamps, like fine wine and plump women, tend to be things you appreciate more as you grow older. My stance on the paint subject comes from having "ruined" dozens of lamps as a younger man by stripping or sandblasting them and then repainting them. I still hold on tho the idea that repainting lamps destroys irreplaceable history. --- Still making the analogy that railfans are an odd lot; give 'em a brand new $40 HO boxcar and all they want to do is slather a bunch of grime on it to "make it look like they really did on the railroad" (aka, "Weathering") but give them a naturally "weathered" switchlamp, in its authentic 'fresh off the tracks' grime, and all they can think of is "how can I clean this thing up and make it look brand new?" ...good to hear from you! ---- .... Red Beard  Posted Tuesday, August 28, 2018 by Red Beard the Railroad Raider

A. Alright my grumpy friend, we await your next victim who asks how to clean or restore a rusty lantern. Posted Wednesday, August 29, 2018 by LC

A. Been meaning to says this the next time the restoration topic surfaced. I have around 40 lamps. Not quite half are restored, the rest will remain as they were found because they were in pretty good shape right off the railroad and they weren't too nasty to handle and didn't have bullet holes in them or the handle bales weren't literally ripped off leaving jagged metal holes near the top of the lamp (I can't even imagine how that was even done) or, the tops slammed off to one side with what must have been a sledge hammer, or the peep hole crudely busted out, etc., etc. These I have restored to mint condition regardless of the glory of their past history and "yes" even bondo came into use. I know....... "Oh the horror," ha ha. I consider such restoration action on lamps of this class to be in line with restoring a classic car to prime condition. These lamps were a marvel of design and deserve to be shown and admired at their best. Just my two cents worth.  Posted Wednesday, August 29, 2018 by TE

 Q3512 Engraved Spike  Could you try to please help me or direct me to someone that could. I have a railroad spike that I have been trying to search for answers on. I want to check if this is a historical piece or some kind of souvenir. I joined on facebook 'Central Railroad of New Jersey' and people historial society of new I have jersey and some people are telling me a amazing find but I would like to send it or take it to be analyzed for authentication. If this is a historical value I would like to have it displayed somewhere.  [Click on image for larger version.] Posted Sunday, August 26, 2018 by LJ   Post a Reply  Email a reply

A. U.S. President James A. Garfield was shot in Washington, DC in July 1881 but survived until just after Sept. 6, 1881, when the infection which had set into the wound finally killed him. The link describes how the desperately ill Garfield was transported by rail, which would have been Central RR of New Jersey, to the N.J. seaside Francklyn Cottage, where it was hoped he would recuperate. Over 1/2 mile of temporary track was constructed (see Link for pic of construction)in just a few hours to deliver him directly to the door. After the President's death, the emergency track was dismantled with the materials being bought by a local dignitary. The ties were used to construct a small 'Tea House' cabin which still exists today. Your spike is quite likely from that temporary track; its new appearance would be consistent with only being used once on a lightly-used track. There would have been as many as 8,000 spikes (2,000 ties, 4 spikes per tie) in that track, and many may have been marked after removal from the track to provide mementos of the very popular Garfield. But there would hardly be anything unique about them to verify, except the marking itself. The Long Branch Museum Assoc. (see Link 2) which now maintains the cabin would very likely appreciate having the marked spike.  Link 1  Link 2  Posted Sunday, August 26, 2018 by RJMc

A. I highly recommend this great book to read further about President Garfield: "Destiny of the Republic: A Tale of Madness, Medicine and the Murder of a President" by Candice Millard. Alexander Graham Bell was part of the attempt to save Garfield's life, interesting. I was inspired enough after reading the story to purchase a BRITISH BULLDOG... BTW, I think your spike is a great piece!  Posted Tuesday, August 28, 2018 by JSM

A. The Link is to a Smithsonian Institution web site describing artifacts from assassinations. It gives the same Garfield story as above, and specifically notes that the spikes from the temporary track were saved as souvenirs, with a pic of a spike similar to yours. The one in their pic seems to be engraved differently, rather than stamped as yours is, however.  Link 1  Posted Tuesday, August 28, 2018 by RJMc

 Q3511 Barrel Globe  I have a barrel globe measures 5.375 inches tall but does not fit the Casey lantern, or an Armspear correctly as the 'fat part' of the globe is higher up and makes the globe sit too far into the font area. What manufacturer of lanterns most commonly take a barrel globe? Thanks. GS  Posted Friday, August 24, 2018 by GS   Post a Reply  Email a reply

A. Coleman camping lanterns use a barrel globe (see link.) Link 1  Posted Friday, August 24, 2018 by RJMc

A. It may not be a lantern globe. Some modern day electric light fixtures have a barrel globe. I have 2 outdoor fixtures with a barrel globe in them. Posted Saturday, August 25, 2018 by LC

A. A picture of the globe would be a huge help.  Posted Saturday, August 25, 2018 by JMS

A. The earliest version of the barrel globe that I know of is the Macbeth 283 dating from around the turn of the 20th century. Posted Sunday, August 26, 2018 by Ex Sou Ry

 Q3510 Adlake Lantern Markings  While trying to research two Adlake Kero Railroad lanterns, I came across your website! What a tremendous collection of data - we’ll done! My question is: I have two #300 series Adlake Railroad lanterns but I can’t find details on the Railroad stamped on the top. I assumed it was Southern Railway but I’m not finding anything to confirm it. Also, one lantern is marked SOU RY and the second one is marked SOU RWY. Any information you could give me would be greatly appreciated!   [Click on image for larger version.] Posted Tuesday, August 21, 2018 by RW   Post a Reply  Email a reply

A. Your lanterns date from the early 1970s and are marked for the Southern Railway. See Link 1 for information about the Southern. These lanterns must have been from different orders or batches and made at different times as they are marked slightly differently.  Link 1  Posted Wednesday, August 22, 2018 by JEM

 Q3509 B&O Jug?  Did they ever make a B&O RR pottery jug? Thanks.  Posted Friday, August 17, 2018 by Michael   Post a Reply  Email a reply

A. They had a 1 gallon size marked disinfectant, was brown & tan. Without a pic yours may be pure fantasy. Posted Saturday, August 18, 2018 by DC

A. Part of the standard equipment of every Pullman Co. sleeping car was a corked pottery jug of 'disinfectant' or 'deodorizer' (see link for pix). At various times the RR's ran the sleeping cars on their own lines, and diners and office cars would have been similarly equipped. They probably all used much the same approach. Link 1  Posted Saturday, August 18, 2018 by RJMc

A. I’ve owned several different styles over the years. Most just say B&ORR in blue letters of various sizes near the top. I did have one once that had larger letters in a frame or panel on the side of the jug.  Posted Sunday, August 26, 2018 by Ex Sou Ry

 Q3508 SAL Pot Use?  I have this old pot marked SAL RY CO - 5 inches wide by 3 inches deep. Any ideas what it was used for ??   [Click on image for larger version.] Posted Friday, August 17, 2018 by Gene T   Post a Reply  Email a reply

A. This is a 'Marking Pot." Used to hold the marking material (paint, ink, lampblack, or ??) so a stencil brush could dip into it before being applied to the stencil. See Prior Q 3367, where another one turned up. And that Q has a further reference to the same document from elsewhere on the RRiana site, shown below in the Link, where Figure 22 shows this item as a standard piece of RR tinware. Link 1  Posted Friday, August 17, 2018 by RJMc

A. Thanks for help. Makes perfect sense. My Grandfather used this to mark bales of cotton with farmers names (initials) and weights before they were sent to warehouse. Our family gin which operated in the 1940s and 1950s was located beside RR and had a loading dock and side track for gin use. Thanks Posted Friday, August 17, 2018 by Gene T

A. The info about the family cotton gin is quite interesting. It causes me to wonder about the business arrangements. Was the RR possibly taking ownership of the cotton (the way the RR often has ownership of coal being shipped?) Did the RR own the warehouse? If either of these was the case, the RR might well have ISSUED their marking pot to your grandfather, to comply with some standard marking spec so that they could keep all their accounting straight. There are thousands of historical legal cases (back to ancient history) relating to grain, lumber, minerals, milk, etc etc dealing with who-owned-what, and when, during transportation. I read one from 1920 or so about one broker mis-appropriating (stealing) 30 or 40 bales of cotton from another broker, by changing markings during shipping and mixing it in with his own 100 bales. When he got caught, the legal case was about trying to determine which bales to give back, since by then they looked pretty much alike. The markings were (and likely still are) crucial to making the whole economic system work.  Posted Sunday, August 26, 2018 by RJMc

 Q3507 Locomotive/RR ID?  Could you please identify this locomotive and the railroad? Thanx.   [Click on image for larger version.] Posted Tuesday, August 14, 2018 by Ed R.   Post a Reply  Email a reply

A. Could be the Sierra Rail Road. "The Sierra Railroad Corporation is a privately owned common carrier. Its Sierra Northern Railway freight division handles all freight operations for all branches owned by the Sierra Railroad". (Wikipedia)  Posted Wednesday, August 15, 2018 by LC

A. The locomotive type is a 2-4-4T tank engine. This type was apparently fairly widely used in commuter-type service (for example by New York Central, Illinois Central, the narrow gauge Revere Beach and Lynn in Boston, and others, see Link to images) then possibly handed down to branch lines, which the No. 2 on the engine would tend to indicate. The pilot on the tank end of this pic tends to indicate it started in that kind of service, where the engines weren't turned at the ends of runs. This engine has both air brakes and an air bell ringer; but still large oil-style headlights, indicating probably the 1920's era. Most distinctive is the building in the background. It has a tapered cupola on what appears to be a shop building, which tends to suggest New England to me. Hopefully these hints will cause somebody to recognize the railroad for this particular engine.  Link 1  Posted Wednesday, August 15, 2018 by RJMc

A. This is also called a 'Forney' type locomotive, after the guy who patented the style with the trailing truck under the built-in tank on the back (see Link). Turns out there were LOTS of these running in commuter-type or elevated service; the Illinois Central alone had over 60 of them and many were sold to other services (without having already been worn out) when they became surplus when the commuter lines all over the country were electrified. I can't quite tell whether the one in the pic is standard or narrow gage, can anybody tell? Link 1  Posted Thursday, August 16, 2018 by RJMc

A. Some further interesting features about the loco in the pic: the trailing truck has inboard bearings, so you can clearly see the whole wheel plate. Almost all the images of other engines on the web have a trailing truck with an outside archbar-style truck frame. The main driver counterweights seem to be bolted or rivetted onto the wheel spokes; almost all others are cast integral with the wheel. And of course the balloon stack, but those are readily changeable without too much trouble.  Posted Thursday, August 16, 2018 by RJMc

A. Bill Edson's Railroad Names book (all-time catalog of U.S. railroad company official names, as registered with the ICC, with their predecessors, successors, and years of operation) lists 39 RR's whose initials could likely be "S.R.R." in the likely time period of this pic. I included RR's like Saline River Railroad. Names range from Salem, Sandy River, Seashore, Shearwood, on down to Swannanoa and Sylvania. I have made some effort to look at each on the web, and have found nothing hopeful about those RR's having engines looking like the one in the pic. Note that Edson lists only U.S. RR's; the engine in the pic could easily be in Canada, or Mexico, or overseas, where this type of engine was also very popular although this particular engine does not show any European hallmarks.  Posted Sunday, August 19, 2018 by RJMc

 Q3506 Piper Lamp Question  The lamp on the left is marked 'Patented 1904 PIPER Toronto' and was found in the Queens Wharf Lighthouse which originally stood at the western gap of the Toronto Ontario Harbour. The light house was built in 1861, decommissioned in 1919 and subsequently moved in 1929 to its present location east of the CNE south of Fleet street. The galvanized steel lamp is 23 1/2 inches tall and has a square receiver similar to the Piper switch lamp on the right. This lamp has two 3 1/4 inch lenses, one clear, one painted green. The tray for the font inside is 6 1/2 inches x 3 inches with the height to the center of the lens from the font bottom 5 inches. This lamp would not be suitable to be the light house lamp. It has been suggested that it might have been a wharf maker lamp. However the shore line was filled to permit the expansion of the railway yards near the Union Station so it may well be rail road related. Any suggestions?   [Click on image for larger version.] Posted Monday, August 13, 2018 by Dave S   Post a Reply  Email a reply

A. Something is strangely missing in these galvanized lamps in that there are plenty of air holes with no apparent wind baffling material. As they stand now, even a light breeze on your patio would blow out a flame, let alone any gust coming off a body of water. In short, I'm not sure what these would be unless baffling material has been gutted at some point.  Posted Monday, August 13, 2018 by TE

A. Interesting observation relating to wind baffling. Had not considered that issue. An examination shows nothing appears to have been removed. The four holes on the side (back and front) are baffled on the inside but certainly not the ring of big holes on the bottom, The top exhaust has protection. The ring that holds the font has a notch where the wick raiser would presumably extend beyond the ring but it is not accessible from the outside. Any trimming would require the removal of the font/burner from the lamp, a finger burning exercise. Perhaps the burner used a large chimney and was one of the “new-improved “ (were they not all ‘improved’?) and designed to cope with wind issues. Posted Wednesday, August 15, 2018 by Dave S

A. Let's look at a couple of other things that are, let's say, unusual here. The lenses are by all means small for a lamp this size and, they are set very low. I'm not sure then as to why you would need so much height for the body and top venting. Note too that the lenses are not held in place by draw bands. I would be real curious to see if there is any focal point/diameter/manufacturer's info stamped or molded into the rim of at least the lenses. This may be difficult to ascertain without removing the lens. By now, I'm sure you sense my suspicion on this piece. The patent tag looks real enough but that is not a complex thing to replicate. Still, I'm certainly open to anyone who's seen something like this and can verify more. Posted Wednesday, August 15, 2018 by TE

A. Having pondered this a while, and agreeing with the prior observations, I suspect this is a 'lamp holder' rather than a lamp. By that I mean you put a hand lantern inside this fixture, and the light of the complete lantern inside came out thru those low-mounted lenses. Some railroad cabooses (ex. Nickel Plate) had tin-box lamp holders for markers on the sides of cupolas, and you put a complete smaller kerosense lamp with its own chimney inside the box for illumination. The hand lantern provided its own wind protection, etc. And then those fairly large side holes would allow someone to make sure the lantern was lit. Another note: there is no significant corrosion, but then, the Toronto Harbor in Lake Huron is all fresh water. (Consequence of THAT: ice. Maybe this fixture provided protection from ice buildup?) I have tried to make sense of the opposed white and green color indications in terms of bouys or other 'marine' markers, or railroad usage, but so far no luck on that.  Posted Thursday, August 16, 2018 by RJMc

A. Sorry, sorry, sorry, Toronto is on LAKE ONTARIO. But still fresh water! And still lots of ice, from somebody who grew up along Lake Erie. Posted Thursday, August 16, 2018 by RJMc

A. Thank you all for your additional comments. I have examined the lenses for any markings. The metal rim which is soldered to the can is rotting away so I am reluctant to dig out the lens. But I can see almost half the rim and edge, and the parts visible have no markings. In comparing the black switch lamp I note that the square receiver on the bottom is slightly less than 1” square. The lamp in question has a receiver that is 2” x 1 ¾”. Does this receiver size provide and other clues? Posted Thursday, August 16, 2018 by Dave S

A. What RJMc says makes a lot of sense. – Dave S; do you have a hand lantern available that you could light and place inside this “mystery piece”? Given the item's patent date you'd want a tall globe lantern; but even a short globe one would give you a good idea. If the bail on a short globe lantern had extra clearance in there with this lamps top, that would further support this line of thought. – Regarding the lenses; as the green one is painted, thus originally white (clear), my first thought is that originally you could change the color of the signal by inserting lanterns with different color globes, and a focused light beam from a lens is more visible than a hand lantern. (better visibility in fog?) – The receiver does indicate that this lamp was placed on some sort of fixed post and that it was intended to shine its light in a specific fixed direction; most likely up and down something's direction of travel (tracks?). The size and shape of the receiver, or actually the post it sat on, also prevents a switch lamp from being placed on that same post, as the switch lamp's receiver would be too small to fit on this lamp's larger post. (fool proof is always good practice on the railroad.) thinking out loud here. ---- …. Red Beard Posted Thursday, August 16, 2018 by Red Beard the Railroad Raider

A. Again, thank you gentlemen for your thoughts and advice. I visited the local antique mall this morning and tried various lanterns. And YES, the standard railroad hand lamp (bail up), both short and large globe fit perfectly, base fits just right, and the flame lines up with the two lenses. A lamp with a red bulls eye seems also to line up fairly well. An older cold blast barn lantern also works with the bail down – the newer barn lanterns have too wide a font base. From comments I gather this find is unusual, and its use still remains somewhat speculative. I am definitely leaning toward rail yard use rather than a marine function despite being found in the lighthouse. Posted Saturday, August 18, 2018 by Dave S

A. When kerosene lanterns were in use, was the lighthouse on an island? I can see this device being a signal light (such as a railroad tower has a 'call-on' light), maybe to tell the mail boat that there is mail to come in and pick up. That's the kind of function not needing to be lit all the time, where it is reasonable to have the lighthouse keeper go out and stick a lantern in it only as long as needed. But the lantern needs to be protected while out there from all that wind, fog and ice we have already discussed. Also, this device almost had to be worked from above. It would be difficult to get the lantern in and out from below the line of the lenses. So maybe it was mounted on the side of the lighthouse, where access was from a window or landing? And the mounting base and bail on the lampholder would only be needed to very occasionally clean the lenses, and maybe get out the bird and wasp nests....And obviously, once electric light was an option this device would disappear from use very rapidly from that kind of function, readily replaced with just a light bulb in a fixture and a switch. I have to say, I am leaning toward marine use. Dietz Vesta and similar hand lanterns were a marine standard as well as a RR standard.  Posted Sunday, August 19, 2018 by RJMc

A. The various 'Piper' Co's provided a very wide line of lighting equipment. Did they equip lighthouses? Maybe your mystery piece was provided as an accessory to re-equipping the lighthouse, and maybe even a 'one-off' custom made as part of a larger job. Posted Sunday, August 19, 2018 by RJMc

A. A bit of further information about the Lighthouse. The following link > shows the Lighthouse in its current position (looks a bit different from the “normal” lighthouse) while subsequent pictures show it and the sister “range light” while it was still in use. Another picture shows it surrounded by rail road fill and it is now high and dry. Posted Monday, August 20, 2018 by Dave S

A. We were somewhat right...The Encyclopedia of RR Lighting, Vol. 2, (now that I have found my copy) in the Piper Co.'s section, shows this exact type of lamp (holder, or "can") being made by Piper between about 1900 and at least 1915 or so. It was used either as a railroad semaphore lamp or as a train order signal. The actual lamp, also made by Piper, placed inside the can, looked like a regular 'farm-style' hand lantern. They mention red and green lenses used on the train order lamps. No mention of marine uses.  Posted Tuesday, October 2, 2018 by RJMc

 Q3505 Button Info?  I'm trying to find out what railroad was S.O. & CO.? I've seen suggestions online it might be Southern New York Railway but I haven’t seen any confirmation. I've also seen buttons on eBay with the same logo and letters but with New York on the bottom so that somewhat hints at it being Southern New York Railroad. Part two of question is why would a uniform button (assumption) have a city yet another would not like this one?   [Click on image for larger version.] Posted Friday, August 10, 2018 by Scott L   Post a Reply  Email a reply

A. Sweet-Orr Company, a manufacturer of work clothes. Not a railroad uniform button but many railroaders wore their denim coats. Posted Friday, August 10, 2018 by DC

A. Sweet-Orr made many variations of their buttons. Posted Friday, August 10, 2018 by DC

 Q3504 RR Lantern??  Any ideas if this is an old railroad lantern? No markings on it.   [Click on image for larger version.] Posted Wednesday, August 8, 2018 by JB   Post a Reply  Email a reply

A. This looks like mabe an acetylene-fueled lamp. Does the burner have a wick, or just a tube (which would bring up the gas to burn if it is acetylene.) Posted Wednesday, August 8, 2018 by RJMc

A. The lens to intensely focus the light, along with the chimney arrangement, makes me think this might be the light source for a projector, such as for lantern slides. It does not look like a RR item.  Posted Thursday, August 9, 2018 by RJMc

A. The photos might be misleading. Is the fairly large, oval gray part on the bottom connected to the light? Or maybe just a can, or something else, you set the light on to take the pic? Posted Thursday, August 9, 2018 by RJMc

A. Here is the description of ONE PATENT that was patented on April 24 1883, does this match the smoke dome?  Link 1  Posted Thursday, August 9, 2018 by JMS

A. SORRY - I meant to post the above reply in the next question down.  Posted Friday, August 10, 2018 by JMS

 Q3503 CVRR Armspear Lantern??  I have this CVRR but no makers mark, only patent dates. Is it an Armspear? Those dates shown and CVRR are not in the database. Any info would be great. Add this marking to the Armspear data if you agree.   [Click on image for larger version.] Posted Tuesday, August 7, 2018 by GS   Post a Reply  Email a reply

A. There are two possibilities for CVRR: (1) Cumberland Valley which existed 1837-1919 and (2) Central Vermont RailROAD which existed 1848-1899, after which it was the Central Vermont RailWAY which lasted until 1995. Your frame appears to be an Armspear "Double Guard" a/k/a "Steel Guard" lantern, similar to the one shown on page 75 of "The Illustrated Encyclopedia of Railroad Lighting, Vol. 1, The Railroad Lantern" by Richard Barrett. Barrett says these lanterns were introduced about 1891. Just an observation and I may be wrong, but the etching on the globe does not look like a pre-1900 job to me.  Posted Wednesday, August 8, 2018 by JMS

A.  I also looked at Armspear lanterns in Barrett and there are some differences between this lantern and the one shown on page 75. This lantern has a brass top and a flat bar stock base at the bottom. The one in the photo is a steel top with wire at the bottom. I tried to check that patent date in Barrett's list of "Selected Lantern Patents" and the April 24 1893 date is not shown, see page 335. I am not surprised though, all US patents are issued on Tuesdays, 4/24/1893 was a Monday. And that makes me wonder if this is a Canadian manufactured lantern and could that be a Canadian patent date? Posted Thursday, August 9, 2018 by KM

A.  Oops, I misread that patent date several times! It is April 24, 1883, not 1893, and that was a Tuesday. Still no help though in Barrett or from a US patent search by date. Given the Canadian influence on Central Vermont I still wonder if this was a Canadian manufacturer. Posted Thursday, August 9, 2018 by KM

A. KM you are correct on the little differences - I did notice the pictured lantern is a BT but should have seen that in the p.75 picture. Thank you for further info. I had no idea about the Mondays and Tuesdays patents - THANKS !! if only they would have printed the numbers.  Posted Thursday, August 9, 2018 by JMS

A. To redeem myself I decided to try to find the patent number - and think I have. Link 1 is for Google Books, a US Patent Office showing patents issued on April 24 1883. This starts on page 1531. On page 1539 a patent shows for #276,182 describing a new arrangement involving band(s), globe holders and bail handle. Please realize, this patent number applies to only a feature(s) on the lantern - this particular patent is not for the entire lantern. I MAY have missed another patent that is in fact the one referenced on GS's lantern, it is a bit to scroll through, and there may be another book (?). Link 2 is helpful instructions on how to conduct a search for a particular patent.  Link 1  Link 2  Posted Thursday, August 9, 2018 by JMS

A. I checked the Patent link and it matches the globe holding mechanism present in my lantern. There is another Patent date on the base of the lantern above where the "Armspear" latch is located. MCH 19, '89. The lantern came from Chambersburg PA, the HQ for the CVRR. Years ago at an estate sale in a nearby town. Globe is maker unmarked, only the etching of CVRR, Macbeth perhaps, however no Macbeth or Corning mark. GS Posted Saturday, August 11, 2018 by GS

A.  Barrett lists March 19,1889 patent # 399944 to Furman D. Spears.  Posted Sunday, August 12, 2018 by KM

A. From your history it does sound 99.44% certain this lantern is from the Cumberland Valley. And KM, good catch on the 1889 patent. I finally figured out (on one of my locks some time ago) that multiple patent dates on a piece usually refer to different parts of it - not the entire item as a whole. I originally had thought the patents referred to the entire piece, I was wrong. Patent dates are a huge help identifying age - the latest one is the earliest year the piece can have been made; but it could be newer because a patent date is not a manufacturing date.  Posted Sunday, August 12, 2018 by JMS

A. This lantern is a product of the Railroad Signal Lamp & Lantern Co., of New York. RRSL&L Co. is an Armspear predecessor. This model with all flat members dates to the mid/late 1880s. Posted Monday, August 13, 2018 by ASwoyer

 Q3502 Lantern Marking  I have a question about a railroad lantern. It has the RR letters on it but they are not showing up on your database. Just wondering what that means. The letters are: C. ST P. N. & O. It is an A&W with a red Adlake Kero globe. Is that an original combination? It is a short globe lantern. Any info you can give me would be great. Thanks,   [Click on image for larger version.] Posted Tuesday, August 7, 2018 by Jeff   Post a Reply  Email a reply

A. Hi; Hard to tell from your photo but possibly one letter, the "M", might not be correct or was mis-stamped. The lantern is from the Chicago, St. Paul, Minneapolis and Omaha Railroad. (C ST.P M & O) This railroad was and still is commonly called "The Omaha". The globe and frame might be original, but there is really no way of knowing as a replacement globe could have been added if the original broke, or another globe color was needed.  Posted Tuesday, August 7, 2018 by JEM

 Q3501 Non-Magnetic Handlan Lamp  I came across this interesting lamp a few weeks ago on eBay. I thought it was just a regular Handlan marker but once I received it I realized it is not made from steel. It is made from some other lightweight metal that is non magnetic. My friends at the Colorado Railroad Museum and I believe it to be made of tin. One of my friends is going to run a Spectrum analysis on it Monday and let me know for sure what it is. The entire lamp minus the hinge, the lens buckets, and bail ears is made out of this lightweight metal. I was just trying to see if you have seen or heard of a lamp like this? Any info would be appreciated. Thanks.   [Click on image for larger version.] Posted Monday, August 6, 2018 by Dusty   Post a Reply  Email a reply

A. Did you consider aluminum, or aluminum alloy? Some of the corrosion spots on the inside suggest that possibility. I note that the door says 'Rock Island Lines' to possibly help others who may have seen others like it.  Posted Monday, August 6, 2018 by RJMc

A. Just got the Spectrum analysis back and it is in fact aluminium. We all kinda ruled aluminium out as we figured the door and other parts would be more flimsy than they are if it were aluminium. There were trace amounts of zinc and copper as well. Please let me know if any of you have seen one like this. Thanks  Posted Monday, August 6, 2018 by Dusty

A. These lamps and most lanterns were produced by stamping out the parts and assembling them. The same dies used for stamping out the steel sheet could also stamp out brass, silver, or even gold sheet and occasionally they did so for special orders(and they formerly advertised this capability.) So of course they could also stamp out aluminum alloy sheet. All of the lamp manufacturers were well familiar with aluminum because they were making cast aluminum electric markers, class lights, and switch lights from very early on. But I think the key difference was that they were electric-lit and/or very thick parts. I suspect the reason your marker is so unusual is that the thin aluminum sheet would corrode away very rapidly under the influence of the hot, moist,sulfurous fumes from burning kerosene and the lamp would have a very short life in service. It is possible you have a test or prototype object, one of few made in a 'model shop' mode, maybe at the RR's request. Does your lamp show signs of being used? Posted Tuesday, August 7, 2018 by RJMc

A. There are signs of use. There is a light coating of soot but not much. Someone may have cleaned it as well though. Even the inner removable chimney is made from aluminium. There is a nice dent/ mark from the inside out from the burner pot being slammed into the back wall that shows age like it happened more than once. There are a few other dings here and there but being that it's aluminium it's not bad overall. Worse part is the top part that says Handlan is fairly wavy but seeing how I can flex that area by hand it's understandable. Im starting to lean towards it being prototype or a trial piece that they found out didn't hold up myself now. Posted Tuesday, August 7, 2018 by Dusty

 Q3500 Help with Key ID?  I have an old key that I presume to be a railroad signal key. However I can't identify the letters 'JRH' on one side as a railroad abbreviation. The word 'signal' is on the other. So I assume railroad related. Could the RH be roundhouse?   [Click on image for larger version.] Posted Saturday, July 28, 2018 by Chris S   Post a Reply  Email a reply

A. JRH likely is the initials of the man assigned the key. Such a terrific old key!! Many keys, unfortunately, escaped being marked for the railroads that ordered them, and this seems to be one. It looks like the gentleman had a blank key that must have operated a signal lock, and he likely did all the stamping himself (all the letters appear to be from the same set of dies) to help identify it on his ring.  Posted Sunday, July 29, 2018 by JMS

A. I agree that the 'JRH' are likely the owner's initials. The term 'Signal' is used by some other services, not just RR's; examples include traffic signals (control boxes for stoplights), and fire and police department telephone boxes (used before radios were common)used keys like this. What also strikes me about this key is its 'homemade' look, as if somebody cast it themselves (having done this myself). One indication of this possibility is the lack of any mfr's mark; another is that the ring is not aligned with the barrel in a way that would be difficult for wear to produce. Another indication is the obviously one-time stamping, including using an upside-down 'F' to make the 'L'; somebody lost or broke the 'L' stamp from the kit that was used to do the stamping.  Posted Wednesday, August 1, 2018 by RJMc

A. The "H" could refer to hose. Many fire departments had that as part of there name. Just as examples, NOT an ID of any kind, Jersey River Hose, John Roberts Hose. Only speculating that it could be FD.  Posted Tuesday, August 28, 2018 by J FR

 Q3499 Lantern/Lamp ID Needed  I recently bought this lantern but can't find one exactly like it. Was wondering if you know if it's old or just a replica? It is oil and there's no markers mark on it anywhere. Thanks .   [Click on image for larger version.] Posted Thursday, July 26, 2018 by CW   Post a Reply  Email a reply

A. This appears to me to be a newly made decorator item. Maybe one of the India imports (?). The curlicue feet don't appear to be stable enough to hold an oil fire above them, and certainly the handle is too close to the heat that will be coming out the top when lit. Sorry!  Posted Thursday, July 26, 2018 by JMS

 Q3498 Keline Lock  I have several Conrail locks made by KELINE. Does anyone know if other manufactures of keys will work on these locks?  Posted Tuesday, July 24, 2018 by Tom W   Post a Reply  Email a reply

A. See Prior Q 3356. If the locks you have are the 'standard' Conrail switch locks, using the large barrel-type key with a right-angle bend in the bit shown in the pic with Q 3356, that key was also a standard for the Penn Central and for the Pennsylvania RR for decades before that. The PRR keys from decades ago were to the same pattern but slightly smaller, but all having that same bit pattern will work in the more recent locks regardless of the key mfr. or whether marked PRR, PC RR, Portugal, CR or even ATK.  Posted Tuesday, July 24, 2018 by RJMc

 Q3497 Porcelain Railroad Crossbuck Restoration  I am trying to help someone get information on restoring a railroad crossbuck that he believes is porcelain. It was hit by a truck in his driveway and the porcelain body of the sign was damaged. The lights are still operational. I have not seen a picture of it, so I’m not exactly sure what was damaged and what needs to be fixed. Do you have any information on restoring crossbucks or have any idea what kind of businesses might have the expertise to repair one of these signs? Thank you,  Posted Tuesday, July 24, 2018 by JGR, National Toy Train Library   Post a Reply  Email a reply

A. JGR : As always, this is a situation where PHOTOS are going to be a huge help; in fact, without photos it is going to be pretty much impossible to point you in the right direction. Photos of the item can be sent to the same address you sent your initial question to. – Cross bucks were made out of many materials, if this set is coated in porcelain it would be pretty hard to actually repair. Photos are really going to be needed to asses the situation. ---- .... Red Beard Posted Tuesday, July 24, 2018 by Red Beard the Railroad Raider

A. I am working on getting pictures and will follow up with you after I get them. Posted Wednesday, July 25, 2018 by JGR

A. There is a huge hobby interest in porcelain signs (think gas stations to start) - if you can get into that loop there may be some serious assistance, if the crossbuck is in fact porcelain. Just remember, porcelain is GLASS - never try to clean it with any kind of metal. Even the finest steel wool will leave scratches - undetectable to the eye but over time they will discolor.  Posted Wednesday, July 25, 2018 by JMS

 Q3496 Dietz Empire Lantern  I would appreciate any history or knowledge you have of my grandfather's Dietz Empire lantern. He used it as a railroad surveyor prior to the depression. Thanks,   [Click on image for larger version.] Posted Sunday, July 22, 2018 by Mark   Post a Reply  Email a reply

A. According to Woody Kirkman's Lantern net website the Dietz Empire lantern was "Made especially for the New York Central from about 1915 into the 1920's, unknown if they produced for any other Railroad". See Link and scroll down to "Dead flame lanterns". Link 1  Posted Monday, July 23, 2018 by LC

 Q3495 AM RY EX Box  I cannot find anything on line about this piece. The lettering reads: 'AM RY EX'. Other than being in business from 1918-1929, I see nothing like it. I love it, and would just like to know more about it. Thank you!   [Click on image for larger version.] Posted Sunday, July 22, 2018 by Doug B   Post a Reply  Email a reply

A. See prior Q's 2590 amd 123 about similar boxes. Just enter the Q numbr in the 'Question Number' box to go directly to a prior Q. There is something of a debate over whether a box like this served an express messenger as a 'portable office' to carry forms, seals, sealing tool, etc, or whether the express co. put shipped items into the box and sealed it for shipment (the way the US Post Office now provides Rxpress and Priority Mail boxes and envelopes to shippers, but the wood box was fully re-usable.) I recall some discussion of express shipment methods in stories of 'Robbing Trains,' where the express car (or compartment separate from the regular baggage space) would have the highest value shipments and be a primary target of train robbers. Always a key issue for the robbers: the onboard express co. agent ('messenger')was armed and the currency and valuables were often in locked safes and/or possibly boxes like yours. So whether the robbers could convince the agent to provide access largely determined the success of a robbery. I will try to look those stories up and provide references to ones with more historical validity. Much earlier, stage coaches could not have had safes, and would have needed locked and sealed express boxes for high value shipments. Unfortunately, a lot of the info refers to Wells Fargo, and so many kinds of WF materials including boxes similar to yours have been recently faked and even 'weathered' to look old, that we avoid talking about Wells Fargo.  Link 1  Posted Tuesday, July 24, 2018 by RJMc

A. The Link is to a much longer story of train robbery in the 1860's; it makes very clear that in this case, the Adams Express Co. played a very key role in these affairs from start to finish. Link 1  Posted Tuesday, July 24, 2018 by RJMc

A. The words to look up on the web are "Express Strong Box" and many items come up, many very similar to yours. As to the debate about how the boxes were used, I think a strong clue is the hardware that allows the box to be both padlocked AND sealed. I suspect that in earlier decades that was to put valuables inside the box for secure shipment. Later on, when the facilities (safes) on the trains got much better, the boxes probably got re-purposed as mobile offices.  Posted Tuesday, July 24, 2018 by RJMc

A. Here is some really good historical background about the express service, it mentions but does not say much about American Railway Express (Link 1) and what terrific information about the Adams Express (go past the stock market info and see where it started!) (Link 2)  Link 1  Link 2  Posted Wednesday, July 25, 2018 by JMS

 Q3494 Lantern Info Needed  If you could please help me identify this lantern, I would really appreciate it. Thank you very much!   [Click on image for larger version.] Posted Sunday, July 22, 2018 by Doug B   Post a Reply  Email a reply

A. Offhand I'd say Central of Georgia Ry....where they forgot the G. I've seen Nickel Plate lanterns factory marked NPK and Duluth Mesabi & Iron Range lanterns marked DM&IRR, also from the factory. I know there's more, but those are examples. Posted Sunday, July 22, 2018 by BobF

A. I once had a B&O 'RY' (Not 'RR') lantern. This was just one of many misprints from the factory. Posted Sunday, July 22, 2018 by PK

 Q3493 Signal Lantern Lenses  Hello! Wondering if you would be able to answer a question I have about an Adlake railroad signal lantern I had come across - it is in great shape, but on one side it has a red lens which was larger than the others - it seemed like it was OK, but I was wondering if any of the lanterns made, had that as a standard option, or could it possibly be an aftermarket lens? Retrofitted to the lantern itself? Are all of the lenses supposed to be of equal size on the 4 sides? Any help would be great! I have a chance to purchase it, but really don’t know much about the options of these vintage lanterns. Thank you!  Posted Tuesday, July 17, 2018 by James   Post a Reply  Email a reply

A. James: This is where a PHOTO would be really helpful. - Minus that, it sounds like that you have a Marker Lamp. Many marker lamps had an oversize red lens; usually 6&3/8 inch. The other three would be either all green or all yellow; and with the oversize red lens, the other three will usually be 5&3/8 inch. Switch lamps frequently have two different size lenses, paired 180° opposite each other; Examples would be 4&1/2 inch and 5&3/8 inch;or 5 inch and 5&3/8 inch; or 4&1/2 inch and 4&1/8 inch as mentioned towards the end of Q3489. The green lens would always be the smaller size and the two green lenses would be 180° opposite each other. This was done primarily to keep the lamp tender from spacing out and putting the wrong color lens in an opening. ---- .... Red Beard Posted Tuesday, July 17, 2018 by Red Beard the Railroad Raider

A. See the Link for a page in the archives on this site showing and describing many of the lamps we discuss often here, and there are supply co. catalog pages as well. In general, the bodies of kerosene switch lamps, marker lamps, and classification lamps are very similar. The main difference between a switch lamp and the others is they are base-mounted and the whole lamp turned along with the switch (or derail) mechanism to indicate the various positions by showing the lenses in different directions. Markers and classification lamps were hung on one (or sometimes one of two) feet which were inserted in brackets on the side of the car or loco. Sometimes they are marked 'Left' and 'Right' Only the lamp body would rotate in its mounting bracket to change the indications, usually with some kind of mechanical latch and lever. Markers showed to the rear; classification lamps showed to the front and sides. After being hung on the bracket, classification lamps often had a small mechanical lever on the side to easily change internal lenses to go from white to green, or sometimes red to use if the engine backed up. That allowed changing the color on all sides of the lamp without rotating the body. The units with two mounting feet at 90 degrees allowed hanging the lamp on either an end bracket or a side bracket on a car or loco, since both were commonly used. Intended to be portable, and fairly expensive, markers and classification lights are more likely to be marked with the RR's initials. But switch lamps may be marked depending on the RR's practices. The lamp bodies and parts are so similar that often parts might get swapped, either during the RR service or by others afterward.  Link 1  Posted Wednesday, July 18, 2018 by RJMc

 Q3492 Engine Headlight Database?  I recently acquired several steam engine headlights and was wondering if there is a way to track it to a particular railroad by the railroad record number on the tag? Is there a database for these numbers and if so where would I find it? Thanks.  Posted Tuesday, July 17, 2018 by Jerry M.   Post a Reply  Email a reply

A. You acquired several steam engine headlights = WOW lucky you! I’ve owned a few over the years and believe that the engine number would be you best clue or starting point. The brass tags on headlights that I’ve owned seem only refer to patent numbers. I could be wrong on this as I am sure there are others out there who may know more than I do.  Posted Tuesday, July 17, 2018 by ex sou ry

A. Jerry M : as always, the very best thing you could do is to send in PHOTOS of the headlights and let us point out some things from those pictures. Many railroads had distinctive enough headlights that they can be ID'd from a picture. ---- .... Red Beard Posted Wednesday, July 18, 2018 by Red Beard the Railroad Raider

A. There are ID numbers on some of the mfrs. tags that I am guessing might be mfr's lot or order numbers which potentially could be related to the RR that ordered the headlights. I have NOT had the sense that the 'record numbers' were individual unit serial numbers for each headlight. Unfortunately, I am not aware of any records, cross references, or data bases available today to match up those numbers now, with the ordering RR, then. But photos might still be helpful and provide clues.  Posted Wednesday, July 18, 2018 by RJMc

A. Just send your photos to this website via email (like you sent the question) and we'll post them to the question as a response. We don't allow direct posting of photos to questions and responses for security and storage management reasons. Posted Sunday, July 22, 2018 by Web Editor

 Q3491 Lamp Question  I have what I think is a adlake #1112 non sweating marker lamp. The base is rotted out. I was wondering if the base can be fixed? I can soldier a new piece of tin on the bottom. I was wondering if this is advisable but the base I see on others similar to this one have a base with a foot on it. I was wondering if I could get one? The brackets and shades are pitted and worn. Can these be replaced also? Any information would be appreciated. Thank you for your time.   [Click on image for larger version.] Posted Tuesday, July 17, 2018 by SP   Post a Reply  Email a reply

A. My best happy hunting grounds for lantern parts is the Gaithersburg Show held the first weekend in November. Guys often show up with boxes of parts and pieces that are too esoteric for internet auction sites.  Posted Tuesday, July 17, 2018 by Ex Sou Ry

A. If the lenses, burner/fount etc are missing as well I would say you could probably buy a good condition and complete 1112 lamp on that well known auction site for about the same money you'd put into trying to find and buying parts for your lamp. The 1112 is a common switch lamp so rarity is not an issue. Posted Wednesday, July 18, 2018 by LC

A. SP : Yes, it is an ADLAKE 1112. You have a Switch Lamp from the Pennsylvania Railroad; not a marker lamp. Even though the bottom has rusted away, it is a salvageable and desireable piece; and actually the body looks to be in pretty good shape. You can certainly solder a sheet metal disk into the bottom of the lamp and do a fairly good restoration job. I'd be tempted to find a good sheet metal or custom auto body shop and have them assist you in cutting that disk or even forming a cup with some low sides for that replacement bottom. When you say the “brackets and shades are pitted and worn”, you can fill in some of the pits usually with several coats of paint primer, sanding between coats. Or you can look on eBay for replacements. Lamp parts show up on there frequently. – As to the base; See LINK 1 for a good depiction of the ADLAKE cast switch lamp base. The LINK is actually to the #169 lamp, but the base is the same as the #1112, and that link is a clearer illustration of the cast base. NOTE, however, that the PRR practice was to turn the base 45° on the bottom of the lamp. - What do I mean by that? ..note that in the illustration of the #169 lamp, the flat sides of the cast base are lined up parallel to the lenses. The Pennsy rotated the base 45° so that the corner of the base was facing the lens. They are they only railroad that I know of that did this. – You have some options here; over the years, many lamps have had their cast base removed by collectors and home decorators as doing so makes the lamp shorter and easier to put on a shelf as well as making them more stable; those bases are of a pretty small footprint and make the lamp easy to tip over. By not replacing the cast base you would still have a nice display item. You can search at shows and on eBay for a replacement base, -OR- you can try to make a reasonable facsimile; of all the parts on your lamp, the cast base is the one piece that you could make a pretty good replacement for out of some sort of modeling compound, depending on how artistic you are. – As to lens and day target color; the lenses for your lamp would be Yellow and Lunar White, the day targets would be chrome yellow for the yellow lenses and white for the lunar lenses. If the lamp takes two different size lenses (and I think they did) the larger lens is the yellow one. Those show up on eBay as well, but you have to search constantly. ---- …. Red Beard Link 1  Posted Wednesday, July 18, 2018 by Red Beard the Railroad Raider

A. As the LINK is not working this morning, copy and paste this: - Posted Wednesday, July 18, 2018 by Red Beard the Railroad Raider

A. Well, we're continuing to tweak the code to allow longer links. The link field from Red Beard has now been posted from this form and it seems to be working. Apologies for this annoying problem. Link 1  Posted Thursday, July 19, 2018 by Webmaster

 Q3490 Removing Inspector Lantern Globe  I recently acquired two inspector lanterns. They seem like they are in fair condition, some rust, nothing seems broken. The globes seem original. Problem is: I want to clean them up but have no idea how to remove the globes! Is there anywhere on the web that gives instructions for this because I can’t seem to find it? Thanks in advance.  Posted Tuesday, July 17, 2018 by Karen D   Post a Reply  Email a reply

A. We can probably help with this here on this site. But there are many different types of inspector lanterns, so a pic would be very helpful to make sure we give good advice. Posted Saturday, July 21, 2018 by RJMc

 Q3489 Lamp Questions  I recently purchased an 'Adlake Non-Sweating Lamp Chicago' and have some questions. It has 2 red lenses and 2 green lenses. The red lenses have red targets and the green lenses have a small hood rather than a target. Age – From what I have read, my understanding is that Adlake produced square top lamps in Chicago between the mid-1920s and 1927. Lamps produced there were stamped with 'Chicago'. After that period of time (1927), the company moved to Elkhart, Indiana and lamps no longer carried the 'Chicago'stamp. I am guessing that this lamp is from that time period. Is that correct?'The base has 4 feet on it and has the number 86025 cast into it. I am guessing that this is a switch lamp. Is that correct?'What does non-sweating mean and how does that make it different from other lamps? Thanks!   [Click on image for larger version.] Posted Thursday, July 12, 2018 by Oreo97   Post a Reply  Email a reply

A. Oreo97: Yes, this is a switch lamp. I've seen many, many ADLAKE lamps over the past 50 years. Thinking that all the square top lamps I've ever seen said CHICAGO on the cap; some of which I know for a fact as having been produced in the 1960s. From material recently uploaded on this site, it appears that the square top vent system was introduced in the "teens", as bulletin B-31 (LINK 1) mentions the square top system and that bulletin is dated January 1916 (far bottom right, last page)- Not all lamps had day targets; many had none. It's quite common to see lamps with day targets only on the red or yellow lenses, and with hoods, or nothing at all, on the green lens. Some lamps had day targets all around. This was purely by the preference of the railroad. The number cast onto the base is a part number. - The little port hole / peep hole had a flat, clear glass disk in it when new. The rubber gasket made the glass disk air-tight. The peep hole was so that the lamp tender could look in and adjust the flame up or down after refilling and relighting so that it didn't smoke. Lamps needed to be closed and warm back up to operating temperature after being re-lit before the final adjustment of the flame. The "Non-Sweating" feature of the vent system is explained in LINK 1 as well. the vent system drew outside air down over the back of the lenses so as to keep the front and back of the lens nearly the same temperature to prevent condensation and fogging of the back side of the lens, which would significantly reduce the visibility of the light from the lens. By the early 1900s, most lamp manufacturers had similar venting features. ---- .... Red Beard Link 1  Posted Thursday, July 12, 2018 by Red Beard the Railroad Raider

A. Well, as unfortunately happens on this site, the LINK feature isn't working. Copy and paste this - Posted Thursday, July 12, 2018 by Red Beard the Railroad Raider

A. ALSO: It is almost impossible at this point in time to date square top ADLAKE lamps. They all look just alike, and apparently there were NO manufacturing changes to the original design from inception until the last kerosene lamps were produced and used in the '70s. ---- .... Red Beard Posted Thursday, July 12, 2018 by Red Beard the Railroad Raider

A. Thanks for the fast reply! Your information was really helpful and I learned a lot. I will keep your response with the lamp so my grandchildren can know about it when they are a little older. I have downloaded the bulletin and will also keep it with my lamp. Age doesn't make a difference to me. I'm just glad to have the lamp and it looks great with my grandfather's O gauge Lionel trains. In case you couldn't tell, I have hung a light bulb down the vent to illuminate the lenses. One of the red ones is broken but still in the housing. I have ordered a new one (with gasket) and will install it upon arrival. Thanks again for sharing your knowledge. It made my day! Posted Thursday, July 12, 2018 by Oreo97

A. With that arrangement of red targets and hoods over the green lenses (all 4-1/2" diameter it appears), there's a very good chance that the lantern came from the Burlington. I've also seen BN, INC (stamped in the base) lanterns with this arrangement. Posted Friday, July 13, 2018 by BobF

A. In very old lamps, the peephole window was made of natural mica ("isinglass")which is transparent enough, but somewhat brittle, when thin slices are used. Glass has been in use for quite a while and is much more transparent and durable. As to 'non-sweating', one of the unavoidable byproducts of burning kerosene is water vapor. Without the 'anti-sweating' air flow design, in cool or cold weather the water vapor would build up in the lamp and as indicated above, condense and sometimes freeze on the insides of the lenses. Initially that destroys their ability to focus the light and eventually, with picking up soot, dirt, etc, blanks out the light completely. And it is a real chore to attempt the clean the interior of a switch lamp caked with moist soot and kerosene, without totally dis-assembling the lamp and lenses. One of the key features of the design, often missing in souvenir lamps, is the small Pyrex glass chimney (about 1" in diameter and 3" tall.) It conducted the incoming air to the flame to properly mix for combustion, and directed the burned gases and water vapor into the 'non-sweating design flow pattern.  Posted Friday, July 13, 2018 by RJMc

A. RJMc : Thanks for mentioning "isinglass", that's an important piece of history to pass along to readers, one that is rarely mentioned anymore. My experience is that Pyle National liked mica and used it in late production of their round, two lens class lamps. Those class lamps had a large "peep hole" window on the opposite side of the body from each of the lenses; which were 90° apart. I've always assumed that was so that the crew could see from the cab if the lamp was lit or not. All Pyle class lamps I've seen had thin isinglass disks in those peep holes. - Also, in the late days of lamp use (mid 1960s onward), and as many railroads were running out of money, quite a few lamps in service went without proper replacement of that very important Pyrex chimney. A "Non-Sweating" lamp without the chimney didn't perform; and as you mention they would soot up their interior something awful. I've seen some where, in addition to no chimney the wick was turned up too far, creating smoke and poor enough combustion that besides the soot, there was a tar like substance inside the lamp and even up in the perforated cone in the metal chimney baffle, so bad that the perforations were almost entirely blocked. ---- .... Red Beard Posted Friday, July 13, 2018 by Red Beard the Railroad Raider

A. Folks, I've lengthened the link field to accept a higher number of characters so the problem of bad links should get better. There's still a limit of 255 characters owing to the structure that was established 20 years ago when URLS tended to be smaller. I fixed the link field in Red Beard's original response. Sorry for the problem. Posted Friday, July 13, 2018 by Web Editor

A. BobF : A question for you. Do you have actual marked BR/CB&Q lamps with 4&1/2 inch green lenses? And if so, do you know where they were last in use? -- I have several of the lamps, and saw many more in service back in the day. All of the BR/CB&Q marked lamps I've seen actually had 4&1/8 inch green lenses. The unusual goggle in the lamp body for the green lenses had a step down shelf formed into it so it could accommodate either size, though I never found any in the Omaha/Council Bluffs area with 4&1/2 in. green lenses. Additionally; instead of a lens hood, as pictured in this question, they employed a unique full circle ring hood; the lens sat in the smaller step down I mentioned and the ring sat in the 4&1/2" step and the two pieces were held in place by a standard 4&1/2 inch lens coupling ring. The lamp would not accommodate the green lens without the full circle ring hood to hold it in place, though 4&1/2 in. lenses will fit directly in them. The litmus test for unmarked Burlington lamps is the 4&1/8 green lens, OR to take out the replacement 4.5 inch lens and see if that step down shelf to 4&1/8" is built into the goggle. ---- .... Red Beard Posted Friday, July 13, 2018 by Red Beard the Railroad Raider

A. Red Beard, I stand corrected. It's been so long since I messed with a BR/CB&Q lantern that I forgot that they had those 4-1/8" green lenses. I just instinctively see a lantern like that and think Burlington. Posted Tuesday, July 17, 2018 by BobF

A. BobF : drop me an email sometime, it would be fun to trade stories. Posted Wednesday, July 18, 2018 by Red Beard the Railroad Raider

A. Gentlemen, This lamp that is pictured and is being discussed is a Milw Road lamp and is probably one of the last orders from Adlake.I can tell its Milw by the inside shape of the lamp tip casting and the new hole that was drilled thru both sides of the base casting to add the large pop rivet they were famous for using for theft deterence.The Milw ordered and used the green/red/red targets version on their low boy switches on crossovers.The green/yellow/yellow target version was used on yard lead switches.Some of these late Adlakes had a CMSTP&PRY letter stamping on the edge of the top cap. The CB&Q/BN did use 4-1/8 green lenses with that 4-1/2 inch reducer ring.The CB&Q's lamp tip was very small and their initials were often cast in the lamp tip socket casting. DJB Posted Thursday, July 19, 2018 by DJB

A. DJB ; Thanks for that info. I do remember seeing MILW shop made lamps and Dressels on the Milwaukee that had been drilled through like that. The ones I saw in Council Bluffs and Sioux City had a piece of soft steel rod stuck through that hole and then bent 90° on each end. On the shop made lamps, they took the spring loaded knob out of the base, and using that same hole that the spring loaded plunger went in, they'd drill right through the target rod and run the steel rod through it. In Omaha, the UP had some industry sidings out west that had the lamps actually welded onto the target rod. ..those blasted souvenir collectors kept the lamp makers pretty busy in the last years of lamp use. ---- .... Red Beard Posted Friday, July 20, 2018 by Red Beard the Railroad Raider

 Q3488 Good SIgn?  Can you tell me does this sign look right to you? I just bought it. I did some research and the IRT never ran in Queens. It's a porcelain sign but not as good quality as some of my other old porcelain RR signs. I’m just not sure. Thank you.   [Click on image for larger version.] Posted Sunday, July 8, 2018 by Michael   Post a Reply  Email a reply

A. The IRT Flushing Line did in fact run in Queens - "The IRT Flushing Line is a rapid transit route of the New York City Subway system, named for its eastern terminal in Flushing, Queens. It is operated as part of the A Division. The Interborough Rapid Transit Company (IRT), a private operator, had constructed the section of the line from Flushing, Queens, to Times Square, Manhattan between 1915 and 1928. A western extension was opened to Hudson Yards in western Manhattan in 2015, and the line now stretches from Flushing to Chelsea, Manhattan. It carries trains of the 7 local service, as well as the express during rush hours in the peak direction.[2] It is the only A Division line to serve Queens" (Wikipedia). I think the sign is probably legit. Posted Monday, July 9, 2018 by LC

A. Michael: Another clue to the authenticity of your piece is that your sign is a three dimensional box. Almost all reproduction porcelain signs are on flat stock, though often in various shapes. Additionally, it's a pretty arcane piece. Reproduction pieces take a good deal of work to set up and produce, and are geared to being able to sell numbers of them a wider audience. ---- .... Red Beard Posted Friday, July 13, 2018 by Red Beard the Railroad Raider