A Fake Versus Real Builder's Plate

There have been a lot of builder's plate reproductions done over the years (see pages on this) but it's rare to have the opportunity to compare a real plate and fake plate side by side. Here is an especially good comparison.

The plate in question is from a Norfolk & Western J class 4-8-4 steam locomotive, a celebrated class noted for its styling and speed. First, some pictures of the real thing:

Above: Front, back and side views of an authentic N&W J class builder's plate. The note on the back reads as follows: "Norfolk & Western Railway 4-8-4 #600, class leader of the 14 J class locomotives. Built on October 1941, scrapped in June, 1959. Note the strap mark on back and signs of chroming as these plates were chrome plated. Note wear marks on both bolt holes. Ron J. Muldowney collection - From Kenley/Baker"

Comparison with a Fake Plate

Now here are side-by-side comparisons with a fake version. The real McCoy is on the left in both views. Note the striking similarities between the two plates which make the fake extremely difficult to detect. They are even the same diameter.

An extremely close examination will show that the authentic plate has faint boxes or frames around the figures BUILT, OCT. 1941. and No. 311. The fake plate does not have this characteristic.

The differences on the reverse are much more obvious. The authentic plate on the left has been discolored by years of being attached to a steam locomotive. Evidence of chrome plating can also be seen around the edges. The feature most notable is the marking of the boiler strap running from top to bottom. These are found on all builders plates taken from N&W 600 series locomotives and are clearly evident.

The fake has none of these telltale signs of use. In particular, the brass on the fake has a different hue than the original. The original plates have more of a reddish hue.   According to one source, "Red brass used for plate casting is a mix of copper, zinc and tin.  The component no longer permitted in the foundry mix for red brass was arsenic which gave the metal a flowable characteristic that allowed the alloy to flow through thin sections before cooling.  The fumes from the chemical were ultimately deemed too poisonous for use." In contrast, all of the fake plates have more of a yellow brass appearance.  This makes them easy to spot if the back has not been painted over.  The black spots on the back of the fake in the picture are black paint. In general a plate with a painted back is very suspect.

This comparison shows that authentic and fakes plates can be hard to distinguish when viewed from the front, especially from photographs such as might appear in an internet auction. Advice from experienced plate collectors: If you're not sure of a plate, make sure that you know the seller.  An honest seller will stand behind a plate.

Thanks to all who contributed to this page!